As you may recall, I returned to work as manager at Windermere Real Estate in Monroe in July, following my three month “sabbatical” that has been the main subject of this site.  I returned not knowing for sure what I wanted to do - whether stay as manager or pursue some other path.  What I did know was that during my time away - whether it was in Mexico with Sally, fishing with my cousin Pete in Colorado, traveling solo through Asia and Eastern Europe, or visiting with family at the Diamond D Ranch in Idaho - there was no blinding revelation or sudden realization that presented me with an answer.  What I realized was that I needed to return to work, and that by doing so, I would be most likely to come up with my answer.  It did not take long.

Returning to work, I soon realized this was not what I wanted to be doing.  That said, I did not have an alternative plan, but rather a recognition that as long as I was either there or going back, I would not find an answer. 

Over the course of the next four to six weeks, I talked with Sally, met with my general manager, and other friends and peers.  It was a time of exploration and also one of closure as I participated in the drafting of a succession plan for the office.  Suffice it to say the process went quickly, was well supported by all, and culminated in my resignation as manager effective October 1, 2008. 

It is now almost six weeks later.  I am still affiliated with the office in an assistant manager capacity, supporting the agents and especially the new manager, Kristine Nicholls, as she transitions from her previous role of assistant manager to manager.  To put it another way, our roles flip-flopped!  In addition to my role as assistant manager, I am also looking at doing some transactions, with an emphasis on commercial. 

I am also completing a tax class with H&R Block in Monroe, with the potential for some part-time tax prep work during the upcoming tax season.  I must admit to getting more than a few startled looks upon sharing this latest endeavor - but I have to admit I love it!  For those of you that know me, you probably are not surprised.  Given the current state of the real estate business and economy, this may turn out to have been a good decision!

As I reflect back, I am convinced I have made the right decision.  It feels good!  Where I will be a year or two or three from now I have no idea, but I am excited about the process of figuring it out. 

In addition to supporting Kristine and the office, and learning about taxes, I have also decided to dedicate a certain amount of time to volunteering at the Center for Wooden Boats in Seattle.  Sally and I have been members for a number of years, and it will provide the opportunity for me to spend time in the maritime environment that I have always enjoyed.  As a volunteer I anticipate I will be instructing in their “Sail Now” program, as well as any number of other opportunities. 

I hope you have enjoyed this update.  Please feel free to share any comments you might have, as I will continue checking for postings.  As life changes, or events occur I deem worth writing about, I will from time to time add my own postings.

In late May, after returning home from overseas, I promised to write some closing words on my travels.  To facilitate doing so, I would like to start first with some specific comments relating to the places I visited, and then close with some more general comments about my time away from work.

When I first wrote about this trip, I had commented that Tibet and Nepal were of particular interest.  As it turned out, I visited neither.  The option of visiting Tibet was taken away by the Chinese, and the decision to not visit Nepal was a choice I made.  In hindsight, the loss of the Tibet portion was significant, as it effectively took away the only really structured part of the trip and left me traveling independently for a much longer time than planned.  As it turned out, that was hard for me.

The change of plans caused me to enter India via Kolkata, which given the high heat and humidity was a poor introduction (for me) to India.  Right or wrong, I think Kolkata set the tone for the entire week in India and was directly involved in my decision to leave India early and not venture into Nepal.

It is said that things work out the way they do for a reason.  By leaving early, and not going to Jaipur from New Delhi, I missed the bombings that killed 80 and injured more than 200.  Of course, if I had gone to Nepal from Darjeeling, I would have also missed the bombings.  Regardless of the reasons, I was feeling pressured in India and desirous of getting out.  So I got out.

I have been asked if I would go back to India.  My answer is yes.  I still think it is a fascinating country, with many areas I would like to visit.  I am inclined to think I would do so with the assistance of some sort of tour - perhaps a week through the Golden Triangle - and then a week independently into northwestern India and possibly Nepal.  I would also find a cooler time of year in which to visit!

It was in India I decided to come home early.  In New Delhi, knowing I was leaving, June 10 seemed a long time away.  I was hot, uncomfortable, and cranky.  I knew that if I wanted to change my flight home, it could not reasonably be done at the last moment.  I made the change effectively shortening my trip by the amount of time I would have spent on the tour with Gap Adventures through Tibet.  In hindsight, if I had waited a few more days until I arrived in Turkey before making the decision, I probably would not have shortened the trip - there is so much to see in Eastern Europe and I started to have a much better time!

My postings elaborate on my experiences in Eastern Europe.  There is no need for me to rehash those times here.  Suffice it to say, the experience was great and I am ready to go again!  Sally and I are already talking about a trip to Turkey, Greece, Croatia and Austria next year.

I have also been asked if I am glad to have done the trip.  The answer is a resounding yes!  Obviously there were disappointments, but overall the experience was one I am happy to be able to reflect back on.  Good or bad, we learn and grow from our experiences.

While my trip overseas was a big part of my three months off, it is not all that I did or experienced.  There was the week in Mexico with Sally, a week in Colorado with my cousin Pete, and a week in Idaho at the Diamond D Ranch.  All good times.

During my three months, there was also the unexpected passing of my father-in-law, Jerry, more formally known as Vice Admiral Jerome H. King Jr. 

In mid-June, Sally and I flew south to the LA area to attend the graduation of her niece Melissa from Cal-Tech with her PhD.  Sally’s family - including her dad Jerry, stepmom, sisters, and one nephew - all gathered in Pasadena for the festivities.  We had a great dinner Thursday evening, and all attended the graduation ceremonies the next morning.  It was after the ceremony, while walking back to the car, that Jerry collapsed and was taken by EMS to Huntington Memorial Hospital where he died a short time later. 

Over the past year, Jerry had been suffering from bouts of pneumonia and had grown increasingly weak.  In hindsight, perhaps the strain and heat of graduation was too much, but knowing Jerry, he wasn’t going to miss it!  A tragic and unexpected ending, but one surrounded by those he loved and without the days, weeks, or months of suffering that could have been.

In late July we will travel again to southern California for a celebration of Jerry’s life.  And in September, we will travel to Washington D.C. for Jerry’s burial with military honors at Arlington National Cemetery.

My three months have been full.  In addition to travel, chores were accomplished at home, and the sale of a family owned apartment building was completed largely ending the process of dealing with my dad and Peggy’s estates.

As I head back to the office I wonder how I will adjust.  Will the issues I raised in my earlier writing be resolved?  Or is it time for me to seek other pursuits?  I had hoped that those answers would become clear during my time away, but it seems more likely those answers will be found following my return.  While I had hopes for what some might call a revelation, or perhaps a moment of clarity in which the answer appeared, it did not happen.   At least not yet.

As I am sure many have heard, the trains in Europe are great.  They are reasonable cost, the numerous and frequent, and they seem to go everywhere!  The infrastructure is amazing that is in place to support the network.  And with the exception of the high speed trains, it is a mode of transportation that has changed little.  As an example, waiting in the station for the train, I saw a worker moving alongside the train using what was effectively a ball peen hammer on a long handle to check the wheels.  Tap the wheel and hope it “rings true” - if not the car gets pulled and the wheel replaced.  I wonder how many years the wheels have been checked that way?

Travel by train, and to a lesser extent, provides a great opportunity to see the countryside.  Small villages, each with at least one church, set in a valley or on the side of the hill.  The mountains in Slovenia and Austria were stunning.  Still covered with snow at the higher elevations - and everything else was green.  Not a whole lot different than home - except the mountains are bigger, the villages more frequent, and the distances are much greater.  Consider that in Washington State you can go from Seattle to Cle Elum in 90 minutes and in that time you will have gone from sea level, up to 3,000 feet through the pass, and down into Eastern Washington.  From Ljubljana to Salzburg is four hours, most of which is in the mountains.  And in that four hours you have crossed half of Slovenia, and most of Austria northward almost to the border with Germany.

  View through the glass on the train

Salzburg was stunning.  Less in the mountains than I expected, but the mountains nonetheless provide an incredible backdrop.  The city itself in fascinating.  For those of you that might be fans of The Sound of Music, you may recall some of the scenes that were filmed in Salzburg.  Two in particular that I enjoyed visiting were the cathedral where the Captain and Maria were married, and the cemetery where the von Trapp family hid while escaping the Nazis. 

Salzburg is much more that a place made famous by a movie.  It is a city full of history and vibrant with culture.  It is home to Salzburg University, located in the heart of the old city.  It is a city full of cathedrals, a flourishing open air market, music (Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born there), museums, sidewalk cafes, clubs (have I mentioned Europeans like to eat dinner at nine and party till the very late hours of the night) and friendly people.   I would return to Salzburg in a heartbeat - it is deserving of much more than one day.

  Yours truly, enjoying the view of Salzburg      Looking down on the old town

  The river though Salzburg, with pedestrian malls that bustle with activity

  One of Salzburg’s cathedrals. 

  The open air market - and yes, I did enjoy some fresh fruit

      The potted tree was located at the corner of a sidewalk cafe.  As I was approaching, so was the fire department.  Seems their normal duties include the recovery of wayward swarms of bees.  By the time I took this photo, at least half of the swarm had already been put in the hive.  Needless to say, the cafe was empty, and staff looked very unhappy!

       Fascinating cemetery, surrounded by walls and chapels, and recognizable from The Sound of Music

  As always, one can’t help but appreciate and enjoy the architecture

The morning of the 25th I caught the train to Vienna.  Again, a pretty ride, but nowhere near as stunning as the previous day.  Arriving in Vienna, I checked my bag at the train station (after all, I could figure out lodging later - either in town or near the airport as I had a 6:45 am flight), and caught the subway downtown.  Speaking of the subway, it is clean, fast, and apparently run on the honor system.  People had passes or bought tickets from machines or a ticket office, but there were no turnstiles or ticket collectors!

The subway took me to the square where St. Stephens Cathedral is located.  It is the heart of old town Vienna.  Like so many of the other cities I visited, vehicular traffic is very restricted resulting in expansive pedestrian malls with cafes, shops, etc.  Limited on time, and it already being later in the afternoon, I visited St. Stephens, toured the Catacombs (originally built back in the 1400’s), and wandered around the palace grounds, past the Spanish Riding School, and other landmarks. 

Vienna, like Salzburg, requires more than a day.  There is so much to see and do.  And while there are certainly similarities, there are dramatic differences.  Vienna is a big city, and while Salzburg is not small, it is a lot smaller than Vienna and has that small town feel.

      A couple examples of Vienna statues

      Views inside St. Stephens Cathedral.  It is immense!

  Vienna architecture

As I mentioned, I flew home starting early the morning of the 26th.  As had happened so many times, I met some wonderful people, two of whom I shall mention.  The first is Carmen.  Carmen is from Romania, speaks fluent English, and was on her way to Juneau Alaska to work in a duty free shop on one of the major cruise ships.  Carmen talked about life in Romania, the mountains, the beaches on the Black Sea, and the friendly people.  We had a great visit!

Sitting next to me on the flight to Seattle was Julian.  Julian is from Budapest, and was also enroute to Juneau to join his cruise ship where he functions as the safety officer.  We had a great visit, talking about our various trips, where he has been (many more places than me), families, life at our respective homes, and - of course - American politics.  It is likely we will get together for dinner during one of his Seattle port calls.

As you know, I am home.  All is good here.  That said, I am still jet lagged, but doing better.  Actually managed to sleep until 5:15 this morning, which is much better than the 3:00am yesterday.  Tomorrow will likely be even better.

In a few days I will post some closing thoughts.   In the meantime, I hope you have enjoyed my writings.

Flew to Zagreb yesterday with no problem, took the bus from the airport to the bus station, walked to the train station, got a ticket to the capital of Slovenia - and somehow missed the train even though I was sitting there waiting for it!  I could have taken a train at 9pm, but it would be nice to travel in the daylight, plus I am not crazy about arriving after 11pm.  So I got a room here in Zagreb. Oh well.

The city of Zagreb was not overly exciting.  Lots of big, old, stone buildings - with some nice park spaces scattered about.  There are however, some very nice pedestrian walkways with street-side cafes and shops.  Not touristy, but rather the city.  Given that yesterday was a holiday, the citizens of Zagreb were out in force last night, wandering the streets, sitting at the cafes, and enjoying the evening.  One of things I have enjoyed on this trip is the ability to wander these various cities and see how the residents live.  It really does vary from city to city and country to country.

The train ride this morning from Zagreb was enjoyable and comfortable.  Through a low lying mountain range, with villages scattered through the valleys.  Nice way to travel - I am glad I did it in the daylight.

This afternoon I have wandered around the center of Ljubljana.  The old part of town lies on the south side of the river, with the newer part (it is relative) on the north.  On a hill above the old town is Ljubljana Castle, with great views of the city.  Like Zagreb, Ljubljana has many pedestrian streets-capes, with many cafes, bars, and shops.  Lots of people - even in the rain - and lots more tourists.

Tomorrow I take the train to Salzburg, and then on to Vienna on Sunday.  Going through Salzburg only adds two hours to the train trip, so I thought it would make a nice route.

One other comment about Ljubljana - it took me an hour to find an internet cafe (course I missed the one I am at by a short block after about 30 minutes of searching).  This is the first city that has not had a proliferation of access options!

Not sure when I will get pictures uploaded.  If not before I fly home, I will do so after I get there.  Stay tuned!
 

Took a passenger ferry south to Cavtat for the day yesterday.  Beautiful ride down the coast, small town on a tranquil cove.  Croatia is, however, changing.  A new hotel going up in Cavtat - and Peter at Villa Ragussa says property values in the Old Town have gone up ten fold since the war ended.  During the day in the busy summer season, cruise ships will land 15,000+ tourists on the shores of Dubrovnik each day!  Even so, the evenings remain peaceful.

A few pictures for your enjoyment….

  The waterfront at Cavtat              Cavtat beach

   From the watch tower on the wall at the Old Town

   Old Town Dubrovnik

Arrived in Mostar and found a great hostel.  Clean, comfortable, built two years ago, and located minutes from the Mostar Bridge.  Twenty euros - or about $31 USD!  Plus it included a light breakfast and cable TV.

The Mostar Bridge, as is the entire old town center.  The bridge was originally built back in the 1500’s, used by the Nazis in WWII to drive tanks across, and destroyed by the Serbs in the Bosnian War.  With the help of the international community, the bridge was rebuilt using the same manner of construction with stone cut from the same quarry as the original bridge. 

I had dinner at a riverside cafe called Ristoran Babilon a short distance upstream from the bridge.  As the light faded, lights came on and the crowds dispersed.  (Mostar is a day trip from the coast for many.)   The setting was tranquil and conducive to reflection.  As I looked at the rebuilt bridge, and the surrounding structures - most of which have been rebuilt - I could not help but contemplate the horror of living in a time of war, never knowing when or where the next attack might come.  We in America have been so fortunate, not having encountered such a time in many generations.

As you move away from the city center, the damage remains.  Lots sitting vacant, stone building empty and boarded.

In the morning I traded my Split ticket for one for Dubrovnik.  According to Rick Steves, if one is going to Croatia the Old Town of Dubrovnik must be visited.  Four hours later, after an interesting bus trip - with multiple border crossings - I arrived in Dubrovnik.  Rick is right - the Old Town is fascinating.  Following a recommendation from a fellow traveler met at the bus stop (who happened to be from Ballard!), I looked up  Peter at http://villaragusa.netfirms.com/ and got lodging for the night in the Old Town.  Great guy - his family has owned the home for 200 years - he rebuilt after the war.  The original home was built 600 years ago.  According to the owner, I stayed in the same room as Steve the first time he came to Dubrovnik.

The story of Dubrovnik and its Old Town is quite remarkable.  Imagine if you will, waking up one morning to find Yugoslav warships offshore.  Initially firing upon a communications site, and other military/police installations, they turned their guns on the Old Town.  According to Peter, about 75% of the Old Town was destroyed - it was the walls of the fort built back in the 1500’s that provided shelter for the residents during the attacks. 

Given my return to the states on Monday, my time - and transportation plans - are needing to firm up.  I will leave here on Thursday, flying to Zagreb.  I anticipate being there a day or two, after which I will take the train to Vienna.  At least that is the plan - the bottom line I must make my flight!

   The old City Hall and Libary in Saravejo, destroyed by the Serbs during the seige of Sarajevo

  Gravestones on the hills around Sarajevo

       The Bridge at Mostar

   The port at the Old Town in Dubrovnik

   A moment (more than a moment, actually) of relaxation on the rocks outside the walls of the Old Town

I have to close with a comment about the people one meets when traveling.  Not necessarily the locals, though there are those opportunities, but more specifically other travelers.  Yesterday I met and visited with folks from Seattle, Berkley, Vancouver BC, Switzerland, and Britain.  It is a great experience!

In his guide book on Croatia and Slovenia, Rick Steves includes quite a comprehensive summary of the Balkans conflict in the areas of Mostar (to the west of Sarajevo) and the coastal areas (now Croatia).  Undoubtedly, at different times in the war, both sides engaged in atrocities.  In Sarajevo, I am seeing the impact on this city caused by the Serbian forces.

(The computer here will not allow me to upload photos, so they will have to wait.)

In walking around the city, signs of the war are still very much present.  Most notable - and very common - are walls pock-marked by impact from bullets and shells.  Perhaps most striking is the shell of the old city hall and library.  The structure still stands, having been made structurally sound, but renovations have stopped there.  The windows are boarded, and the exterior walls show extensive damage from shelling.  Early in the conflict, the Serb forces targeted the building, burning all of its contents, which included a library of over two million historical volumes and documents. 

Looking at the green hills surrounding the city, one can’t help but notice the clusters of white grave markers.  It seems no matter where you look, you see them.

The city today is bustling and growing.  It is hard to believe that less than 15 years ago this city was known for “Sniper Alley”.  There are large number of tourists here, mostly it seems from Europe.  At one sidewalk cafe yesterday, I visited with two Dutch couples.  The men had served here during the war, and had come back to visit with their wives.

In speaking with one local, when I said I was from America, he responded with a smile, a thumbs-up, and said “Bill Clinton”!

Today I go by bus to Mostar for one night, and then on to the coast - probably Split.  I will fly home from Vienna on May 26.

Istanbul is a city I will very much enjoy returning to.  Spent yesterday visiting some more of the historic sites, and later in the afternoon took the tram along the waterfront and then the funicular “underground tram” that very successfully moves people from the waterfront level up to Taksim Square atop one of the main hills of European Istanbul.  

As I walked along the waterfront, I encountered increasing security.  I am not talking the guards at the gates or building entrances, but rather squads of police and para-military.  All with riot helmets….  Well it turns out Queen of Elizabeth was scheduled to arrive with the president of Turkey for dinner on her warship tied nearby.  I happened to be standing at the entrance when what I assumed to be her entourage pulled in, but with tinted windows one could not see in the cars.  Oh well.

The people were friendly, the weather was great, and the lodging was comfortable.  I had many opportunities to look at rugs, but without Sally’s help would not have a clue as to what one should buy!

We have often heard that it is a small world.  At dinner, having heard English spoken, I said hello to a group of six arriving.  As is customary, we asked where each was from.  Imagine my surprise when it turned out they all lived within about 30 miles of our home in Monroe!

     Mt. Kangchenjunga (28169 ft), world’s third tallest mountain, at sunrise from Darjeeling

   Typical Darjeeling street scene     and a quiet Darjeeling lane

   The famous Darjeeling (toy) train.  It runs on a 24″ track

Before Istanbul, a bit more on getting out of Delhi.  In my last post I may have mentioned being waitlisted to fly out to Turkey.  Arriving as instructed at the airport at 11:30pm, I was told nothing could happen until 4:00am, and that I would have to PAY to wait in the waiting area in that no one was allowed in the terminal until three hours before their flight!

To make a long story short, once I got in the terminal at about 1:00am, I had the pleasure of meeting two young ladies (19 years) from Sweden who have been on the road for eight months, had spent a month going around the US by bus, and were off for their final month in South Africa.  Absolutely amazing, and entirely wonderful.  What an opportunity to grow and learn!

Anyway, at 3:30am I found I would get on the flight.  Thus commenced the circus of getting me processed.  I think there were four Turkish Airline staffers helping - as they multi-tasked in many different areas.  The change fee was 3,000 rupees (about $75) but it had to be cash, which I did not have.  I was escorted off site to an ATM - it was out of service.  We went to a second one, which fortunately worked.  Ultimately I got on the plane and arrived in Istanbul at about 9:00am local time!

Istanbul is a fascinating city!  And compared to Kolkata or Delhi - and even Darjeeling to a certain extent - it is quiet.  Not to say it isn’t a busy city, it is.  A thriving port, a population of about 15 million (according to one source), and a daily exchange of 50 or so billion dollars in commerce (from another source).

It is also old.  The history is incredible.  Last night I wandered through the Blue Mosque and a myriad of side streets paved with cobblestones and line with cafes and shops - today I acted even more like a tourist and joined a tour!  We saw the city’s old wall, the summer palace which was amazing, took a cruise on the Bosphorus which connects the Sea of Marmara and Black Sea and is also the dividing point between the Asian and European continents, and saw numerous other sites.

I also enjoyed others on the tour.  We had a couple from Dubai (she Indian, he Jordanian), a couple from Mexico City, another from the north island of New Zealand (she a teacher and he a farmer), a couple from Austria, and numerous others.   Some of my most enjoyable times on this trip has been in conversation with people from other parts of the world and today was no exception.  Funny thing, the question of politics (presidential) always comes up - and they are all up on what is happening! 

Where I am staying is Hotel Legend in the old part of Istanbul.  Blocks from the Blue Mosque and surrounded by history.  It is also interesting to note the number of universities in Istanbul - it is apparently quite an intellectual city.  It is also a city that is still uncovering its past - so much so that construction of a subway is constantly grinding to a halt as new archaeological sites are located and evaluated.

Still working on plans from here, so will be sure to share what I get figured out.  In the meantime, a few Istanbul photos…

         The Blue Mosque

   Historic fort       Yours truly on the Bosphorus

   Istanbul Spice Market - a comment on the food, and especially the fruits and vegetables - one could eat their way through town

After wandering around Connaught Circle and surrounds for a couple of hours, I finally decided to go to the Hotel Rak International, a suggestion in my Lonely Planet guide book.  Walked up and got a room for 650 rupees - with air conditioning and a TV.  For those of you not up on international exchange rates, that equates to about $16 US!  I probably don’t need to offer much comment on the quality of the lodging….

Anyway, to get back to the purpose of this post:  Some of the most enjoyable moments of this trip have been the people I have had the opportunity to meet.   This afternoon, sitting in the cafe at the Metropolis Cafe on the Main Bazaar here in Delhi, I had a thoroughly enjoyable, challenging, and enlightening visit with a gentleman from England by the name of Paul. 

Paul is from Britain.  He has visited and done business in India for years.  Having the opportunity to meet individuals such as Paul, and others along the way, has added greatly to the experience.  I think that all of us get too settled in our day to day lives and can benefit greatly from interacting with those outside our normal realm.  This trip has certainly provided me that opportunity and I would encourage everyone to take advantage of any such opportunity.

Still waiting to hear on my flight.  More to follow soon. 

p.s.  The cow, standing outside the front door of my hotel, says hi!