David S. Demarest

I have covered a lot of ground since my last posting in Sarajevo.  I took the bus from Sarajevo to Mostar, about a three hour trip.  The countryside was beautiful – high mountain, rivers, lakes, and sadly – lots of bombed out structures and cemetaries.  In looking at the gravestones anywhere I have stopped, there is one common element shared by many – 1993.

Arrived in Mostar and found a great hostel.  Clean, comfortable, built two years ago, and located minutes from the Mostar Bridge.  Twenty euros – or about $31 USD!  Plus it included a light breakfast and cable TV.

The Mostar Bridge, as is the entire old town center.  The bridge was originally built back in the 1500’s, used by the Nazis in WWII to drive tanks across, and destroyed by the Serbs in the Bosnian War.  With the help of the international community, the bridge was rebuilt using the same manner of construction with stone cut from the same quarry as the original bridge. 

I had dinner at a riverside cafe called Ristoran Babilon a short distance upstream from the bridge.  As the light faded, lights came on and the crowds dispersed.  (Mostar is a day trip from the coast for many.)   The setting was tranquil and conducive to reflection.  As I looked at the rebuilt bridge, and the surrounding structures – most of which have been rebuilt – I could not help but contemplate the horror of living in a time of war, never knowing when or where the next attack might come.  We in America have been so fortunate, not having encountered such a time in many generations.

As you move away from the city center, the damage remains.  Lots sitting vacant, stone building empty and boarded.

In the morning I traded my Split ticket for one for Dubrovnik.  According to Rick Steves, if one is going to Croatia the Old Town of Dubrovnik must be visited.  Four hours later, after an interesting bus trip – with multiple border crossings – I arrived in Dubrovnik.  Rick is right – the Old Town is fascinating.  Following a recommendation from a fellow traveler met at the bus stop (who happened to be from Ballard!), I looked up  Peter at http://villaragusa.netfirms.com/ and got lodging for the night in the Old Town.  Great guy – his family has owned the home for 200 years – he rebuilt after the war.  The original home was built 600 years ago.  According to the owner, I stayed in the same room as Steve the first time he came to Dubrovnik.

The story of Dubrovnik and its Old Town is quite remarkable.  Imagine if you will, waking up one morning to find Yugoslav warships offshore.  Initially firing upon a communications site, and other military/police installations, they turned their guns on the Old Town.  According to Peter, about 75% of the Old Town was destroyed – it was the walls of the fort built back in the 1500’s that provided shelter for the residents during the attacks. 

Given my return to the states on Monday, my time – and transportation plans – are needing to firm up.  I will leave here on Thursday, flying to Zagreb.  I anticipate being there a day or two, after which I will take the train to Vienna.  At least that is the plan – the bottom line I must make my flight!

   The old City Hall and Libary in Saravejo, destroyed by the Serbs during the seige of Sarajevo

  Gravestones on the hills around Sarajevo

       The Bridge at Mostar

   The port at the Old Town in Dubrovnik

   A moment (more than a moment, actually) of relaxation on the rocks outside the walls of the Old Town

I have to close with a comment about the people one meets when traveling.  Not necessarily the locals, though there are those opportunities, but more specifically other travelers.  Yesterday I met and visited with folks from Seattle, Berkley, Vancouver BC, Switzerland, and Britain.  It is a great experience!