David S. Demarest

Spent yesterday wandering around Sarajevo, enjoying the old town with its expansive pedestrian walkways surrounded by shops and cafes,  and visiting the Museum of History which includes a compelling exhibit on the siege of Sarajevo back in the early 1990’s.

In his guide book on Croatia and Slovenia, Rick Steves includes quite a comprehensive summary of the Balkans conflict in the areas of Mostar (to the west of Sarajevo) and the coastal areas (now Croatia).  Undoubtedly, at different times in the war, both sides engaged in atrocities.  In Sarajevo, I am seeing the impact on this city caused by the Serbian forces.

(The computer here will not allow me to upload photos, so they will have to wait.)

In walking around the city, signs of the war are still very much present.  Most notable – and very common – are walls pock-marked by impact from bullets and shells.  Perhaps most striking is the shell of the old city hall and library.  The structure still stands, having been made structurally sound, but renovations have stopped there.  The windows are boarded, and the exterior walls show extensive damage from shelling.  Early in the conflict, the Serb forces targeted the building, burning all of its contents, which included a library of over two million historical volumes and documents. 

Looking at the green hills surrounding the city, one can’t help but notice the clusters of white grave markers.  It seems no matter where you look, you see them.

The city today is bustling and growing.  It is hard to believe that less than 15 years ago this city was known for “Sniper Alley”.  There are large number of tourists here, mostly it seems from Europe.  At one sidewalk cafe yesterday, I visited with two Dutch couples.  The men had served here during the war, and had come back to visit with their wives.

In speaking with one local, when I said I was from America, he responded with a smile, a thumbs-up, and said “Bill Clinton”!

Today I go by bus to Mostar for one night, and then on to the coast – probably Split.  I will fly home from Vienna on May 26.